The closest thing Cincinnati has to signature style pizza is Larosa’s. But its sweet, acidic sauce is often discounted by pizza lovers. So, maybe we can borrow from the rich history and culture of another city known for its pizza? That’s just what former Chicagoan, Don Laden, had in mind when he opened Chi-nnati’s Pizza in Madeira.
As a Cincinnatian with a long time love of Chicago style pizza, I was optimistic about the opening. But after several visits to the restaurant, I’m left feeling that something is being lost in translation.
First of all, the interior at Chi-nnati’s is suffering from an identity crisis. It’s both sporty (with multiple hanging televisions), and trendy (with dark wood furniture and high-end mosaic structures hanging from the ceiling).
And while it’s not a chain, it definitely feels like one. The space actually has the large, overly produced feeling of a Fridays. The ceilings are high, the artwork is contrived, and even the highly graphic menus seem to signal a team of marketing people in overdrive.
The starters don’t help spark my passion, either. Though Don Laden calls Chi-nnati’s a “destination restaurant,” I will be surprised if it actually becomes one. The buffalo wings, though appropriately spiced, are as generic as the space surrounding them.
The same goes for the Caesar salad, which tastes like a bunch of mayonnaise was dumped into the dressing. Further, the house salad is a simple plate of veggies with a mounted collection of unripened tomatoes.
All of this aside, I know that Chi-nnati’s is defined by it’s Chicago style pizza. Indeed, the crust is classically made from olive oil and cornmeal. And the toppings are in standard reverse order: cheese, then toppings, then sauce.
The pizza is decent. The ingredients are fresh and the sauce is garlicky and pleasant. But the thick crust — so important to the pizza’s overall flavor — is on the bland side. I don’t mind waiting 40 minutes for it to come out — that’s what I’d do if I were sitting in the original Uno in Chicago. But I expect it to be drool inducing when it comes to the table. In the several times I’ve visited Chi-nnati’s, it has just been okay.
So, maybe all of this confusion is stemming from the fact that the restaurant is inspired by the culture and tradition of another city. (Admit it, the fact that there are Skyline Chili restaurants in 4 states feels a little odd — as if the one in Clearwater, Florida could ever live up to the original one on Glenway Avenue.)
Or maybe the folks at Chi-nnati’s are still honing their recipes and dining aesthetic. In either case, I’m going to sit the next round out.
{ 9 comments… read them below or add one }
Hmm, interesting, we couldn’t get in when we stopped after Christmas shopping because of a private party and were really disapointed at the time and we’ve been wanting to get back and try it.
Now I’m not in such a big hurry, still want to try it, but now its tempered a little.
Amazing pictures, if thats all I had to go on I’d be in the car driving up there right now.
I struggled with how to frame this restaurant. It’s just really, really average is the best I could come up with. It fills your belly, it comes close to Chicago style pizza, but falls short. I also have a thing against restaurants that seem too big and lack personality. I know people who’d give you a different story. I live with one of them.
I was really disappointed by Chi-nnatis. None of their food stood out and the dining area had little personality. I felt like I was in a hotel restaurant.
Their mediocrity may have something to do with the hex we’d placed on the building shortly after Jalapeno’s closed.
You may have had sub-par food, but your food photography and cropping style are gorgeous.
I know that between Cincinnati and Columbus there are bitter rivalries on many fronts. I grew up in Columbus so I know a thing or two about the city and its culture. After 24+ years in Cincinnati, I can say this about the pizza in both cities: Columbus wins hands down. The best pizza there comes from small family owned “pizzerias”. It is not a chain business. It s a small family business. The pizzas are signature pizzas. Tommy’s, Rotolos, and Rubinos all come to mind. Neighborhood joints if you will. But incomparable. Still, this is my home now, and I am eager to try Laden’s place.
I’ve come to the conclusion that the only way to get good Chicago style deep dish pizza here is to make it yourself. We use a recipe from America’s Test Kitchen that gets great results everytime. America’s Test Kitchen is a paysite, so here’s the same recipe from another site:
http://blog.bitsyskitchen.com/2009/02/deep-dish-pepperoni-pizza.html
It’s surprisingly easy to make, authentic and really delicious as well. BTW, forget Uno’s, the best pie in Chicago is at Gino’s East.
Went here (again) the day after you posted this– what’s funny is the food was pretty good (exceptionally tender calamari, and the thin crust was really nice) but the service was ridiculously bad– we had a large group, which always influences things, but it took the server a half hour to get our drink orders, half hour to run our check… you get the idea.
Chicago style pizza is inherently inferior anyways.
Ha! One of the best debates in food. I guess you’re a New York pizza lover, eh?